We enjoyed an exhilarating hike into volcano Malacara in Malargue. This volcano had rivers of lava that solidified as magma erupted in water over 450 thousand years ago.

We continued the drive south and stopped for a short hike in Manqui Malal to see the angel hair waterfall and hunt for Amnonites (fossils) by the river. It was a fun and educational activity. We were rewarded with several fossils finds.

We continued over 80km on mostly “unpaved highway” then crossed the river Barancas into Neuquén province and drove to the beautiful town of Chos Malal. A Patagonia frontera town Chos Malal lies between the Curri Levue and Neuquén rivers. The town has amazingly beautiful landscapes and an abundance of roses of almost every color and huge blooms. After a peaceful rest in the hotel Terra Malal, and a gem of beauty and tranquility we continued south.

A short detour took us to Caviahue. The home of fresh trout, located by  lake Caviahue and the foothills of volcano Copahue. We will stay here a few days.

Until next post, walk good.

We left Copacabana and after about two hours by bus we arrived in Puno Peru. Puno, like Copacabana in Bolivia sits on the Peruvian shores of Lake Titicaca. Its economy is primarily agricultural and livestock (llamas and alpacas) based. The town is famous for its access to the floating man-made islands on lake Titicaca. We spend only a short time in Puno and soon headed on our road trip to Arequipa.

Arequipa City-After several hours of driving in the dark we arrived in Arequipa. We got off the bus into a taxi and headed directly to our Airbnb for a well needed rest. The next morning when we awoke and looked outside, we observed this giant mountain that appeared to loom immensely over the city scape, It felt so close to us. We did not expect this, so we inquired and were told that is Misti. Misti stands at 5,822 meters or 19,101ft above sea-level and forms part of a series of volcanoes in that region of Peru. The entire city scape and concurrent culture of the city is dominated by the presence of this mountain.

The city has a Spanish colonial era layout. The main historical center consists of a central plaza, surrounded by the Basilica Cathedral, shopping, restaurants, museums set off by lovely palm tress and other ornamentals. This is where you will find the locals gather to listen to music, sale their wares and air their grievances by protesting. The Santa Catalina Monastery is a major attraction in Arequipa. small city within the city.

This very popular monastery is a small self contained city that was founded in the late 16th century. It consists of many cramped but charming streets lined with tiny colorful, houses. These houses we learned, were inhabited by the nuns that lived in the monastery centuries ago. As we wondered around streets, we realized we were exploring a very old but well designed city of plazas, fountains, and cottages. The internal spaces in many of the cottages were creatively designed for the outside light to filter inside. As we prepared to complete our tour, we wondered into a lovely garden, it was like stepping back in time. A space which appeared intentionally designed for serenity and tranquility. It had seating, and planted with flowers and several types of fruit trees.

Visiting Colca Canyon

Driving away from El Salto was difficult. Its that place in the Andes, where families come out in droves on a beautiful spring day, they gather some river stones to protect the fire for the asado as they serve red wines from the backs of their pickups. When the sun sets and darkness rolls in they drink their mate and watch the stars shine brightly and the many satellites stream across the night sky.

We are driving down route 40, and the southern spines of the Andes. Big sky country, four and a half hours to Malargüe, a touristic town known for its historic dinosaur finds. The road is endless and with wide open views of the snow-capped Andes mountains. The range seems to end, yet every turn on the road , new mountains appear. We passed huge fields of garlic, grazing cows and sheep and arrived at our hotel with a front yard filled with sheep.

After spending a memorable time in high altitude La Paz, we embarked on a road trip to visit the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca. The experience was unimaginable to us. The drive was filled with excitement and anticipation while also exhilarating and uncomfortable at times. Mostly, we were in awe of the places we visited; the alluring warmth, the charm and the friendliness of the people we met along the way.

After a long taxi drive in the unpredictable La Paz traffic, we arrived at the bus station for the start of our bus trip to Copacabana. The bus trip was mostly uneventful and we slept. I was awakened by the driver telling everyone we must all disembark from the bus with only small personal belongings to catch a boat to cross the lake.

Although I was told this would happen before, somehow, it didn’t quite register in my consciousness. Nevertheless, we climbed down from the bus and were shown a small Kiosk where we were instructed to purchase a boat ticket to the other side of the channel. It felt surreal as we climbed into the small boat and were whisked across the lake to the other side in about 10 minutes. We disembarked and wondered around the small lakeshore port of Tiquina. Some passengers went off to browse the stalls while others took pictures.

After about 20 minutes our attention was drawn to the lake and the approaching barge. To our surprise, our bus was perched precariously on top of the barge. It was a strange sight, so we gathered around to capture this incredible photo of our bus crossing the lake on the barge.

The trip continued, until we eventually reached Copacabana. This lakeshore town is located on the south shores of Lake Titicaca. It is from here that many scheduled trips on boats sail out to the sacred islands of Isla del Sol and Isla del La Luna. The town has several restaurants, coffee shops and tourist shops and stalls. We proceeded to the kiosk to purchase our tickets to Isla del Sol.

The boat took about two hours to get to Isla del Sol. As we approached, we saw a steep rocky island in the middle of the lake with several ruins and agricultural terraces climbing up the slope from the port. When we disembarked, we were met by our transport, a donkey and its lady driver and our Airbnb host. There are no motor vehicles or paved roads on the island and so you must walk everywhere. Our suitcases went with the donkey and we proceeded to climb up the many steps leading up from the port.

We arrived at our cabin, and were rewarded with one the most spectacular views you could ever imagine. The varied blue colors of the lake against even bluer skies and the snow-capped Andes mountains was absolutely divine. We retired to bed early after our tasteful and well deserved meal of local lake trout. Over the next three days we basked in the untamed beauty and serenity of the island. We enjoyed absolutely amazing sunrises, sunsets and views of the impressive Lake Titicaca and snow-caped Andes from our bedroom. Because of the altitude, we avoided any intense hiking but took time to explore a bit of the island. We were well cared for by Teodora, who made sure someone brought us breakfast on the days she was travelling to Santa Cruz for a wedding. Teodora even provided us with fresh muña muña from here garden to help us alleviate the symptoms of altitude sickness (Isla del Sol is located at 13,045ft above sea level). Sadly, due to mounting symptoms of altitude sickness, we curtailed our stay and headed out earlier than planned to Puno and then onwards to Arequipa, Peru.

Isla Del Sol has a rich history, we share these few pictures to give only a miniscule view of the island .

Tips for travelling by bus to Isla Del sol

1. Bus and boat trips are not the most comfortable, there are plenty of bumps and jerks so travel with medicine if you get sick easily.
2. There are not many options for housing, we highly recommend Teodora’s place (Cabanas Ecologicas Santo Campo) in Aribnb. Book your overnight accommodations early or before arrival on the the island.
3. Internet and Wi-Fi connections are spotty or limited so be prepare you might be disconnect during your stay. Local Telecom provider Entel has service in the island.
4. You must pay for entry to the island, about US10.
5. The locals do not like to be photographed so be aware of this, they will let you take a picture with a llama for a fee.
6. There are no roads and your accommodations might be a steep climb from the port if your accommodation is further up the island. I recommend that you travel light to Isla del Sol.

The last quarter of 2022 was an extremely busy time for us. We spent November and December travelling in Bolivia, Peru and Argentina ( we will post some highlights from those experiences later). We arrived back in the US in mid December to spend the holidays with our family in NYC. In January, we took a break from the cold and dreariness of NYC to visit Spain and Portugal.

We arrived back in Seattle primarily for a legal case against the University of Washington. Although the outcome was not in my favor, I remain convinced I achieved an important goal that brought to the public light some personnel practices at the institution.

Bolivia, like its neighbor Paraguay, is a landlocked country in South America.   It shares borders with Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Paraguay, and Peru. The two most populous cities in Bolivia are Santa Cruz de la Sierra, a large city located in the eastern tropical lowlands and La Paz, a mountainous city located on the altiplano. One of the most striking observation for me in Bolivia was the drastic change in climate from Santa Cruz to La Paz. One moment we were uncomfortably hot in the humid lowlands, few hours later we were freezing in the dry cold of La Paz Department.

Transportation across the city of La Paz is challenging. There are no obvious logic or reason to the manner of driving especially among the cars and taxis. One can easily get bogged down in this type of traffic for hours….not desirable with limited time. An amazing array of cable cars can be seen dotting the entire cityscape to alleviate this transportation nightmare. This organized collection of cable cars forms the backbone of an urban transport system affectionately named “Mi Teleferico“. For a few dollars, you can enjoy some breathtaking sights from up high. This is a delightful way to view the snow caped mountains and undulating and alluring terrain of La Paz city. Although, to experience the array of tastes, scents and hospitality of the people in this awesome city, you must do some walking around in the neighborhoods.

La Paz has a rich and eclectic mix of peoples, customs and cultures and this represent the multiethnic and multicultural diversity within Bolivia. Although a large number of Bolivians have European ancestry, the majority of Bolivians have indigenous ancestry and self identify as mestizo, a mixture of Hispanic and Amerindian cultures. The colorful dresses of the Quechua and Aymara are dominant in the countryside and high altitude places such as  Copacabana, Bolivia, and Isla del Sol in Lake Titicaca. This makes Bolivia an interesting place to explore and learn about some of the oldest cultures in the west.

Tips for visitors to Bolivia

1. Travel everywhere with bottled water for drinking and brushing your teeth.
   
2. If you plan to visit the high cities of La Paz, Copacabana or Isla De Sol in Lake Titicaca be prepared with medications to cope with the high elevations ( altitude sickness).
   
3. Road transport in Bolivia is challenging, plan ahead and be flexible with your time. If time is limited you can get a high up view from the cable cars in La Paz.
   
4. US citizens are required to get a entry visa to Bolivia. The cost of this visa is US$160, valid for 10 years. You can get the visa upon arrival to any port of entry.
   
5. Everyone needs to show an exit ticket (bus/air) from Bolivia upon arrival to a port of entry.

Jujuy is a northwest Argentina province with remarkable landscapes. On this trip, We followed Route 9 headed toward Purmamarca and the Mirador de Hornocal, also known as ‘the mountain of 14 colors’. To get there, we negotiated a 25 km stretch of gravel road past Humahuaca. This road reaches Hornocal and, continues to other settlements deep in the hills.

When we finally arrived at Hornocal, we were at 4350 meters above sea level, 14271 feet. You could immediately feel the effects of altitude as the short walk to the lookout point was strained, a combination of altitude and cold winds. Notwithstanding, It was an unforgettable experience. The presence of nature in its overwhelming magnificence was difficult to ignore.

We continued our journey into Purmamarca, a small town situated off Route 52, which reaches all the way to the Chilean border. Purmamarca sits right next to very colorful hills, and hosts many tourists from all over the country and the world. The market around the main square bustles every day as the tour buses comes through. The town is the gateway to other parts of the Altiplano, like the Salinas Grandes.

Driving from Purmamarca to the Salinas Grandes was an exiting day trip. The road is in great condition, the landscapes change constantly, and you get the feeling you are entering a very special area. There are villages at the edge of the Salinas, and the people help guide your visit unto the Salinas.

The clear skies and bright white salt provide a contrast that is unique and exciting to experience. To see salt blocks being used for construction was unexpected. A major trade road crosses the salt flats and connects to the Pacific port of Antofagasta in Chile and on to Paraguay and Brazil. The large trucks that traverse this region provide a small glimpse into the complexities of moving goods between countries.

TIPS

1. Visit Juan Chani at El Meson in Purmamarca. You will have a great meal in a welcoming space.
2. Mirador de Hornocal closes at 6pm. Plan your trip accordingly. The road is best driven with daylight.
3. You will need a guide to enter Salinas Grandes. They are knowledgeable and happy to take your pictures. Cost of entry is $1500 argentine pesos per car ( September 2022). Well worth it!.
4. Route 52 is in great shape. A true joy to drive it at sunset. Until next time.

Walk good

We never could imagine being evacuated at nearly 4000meters. It is no fun but this actually happened to us when we went for a trip on el tren a las Nubes-train to the clouds. After a very long bus trip by bus from the station in Salta we arrived at the San Antonio de los cobres. A very small town in northwest Argentina located at a high elevation (3,775meters or 12,385 feet above sea level. Instead of trees. the hills are dotted with large cacti and some shrubs.

As we traveled up the mountains, we saw small stalls with many types of clothing and goods. Very popular are the Llama wool sweaters, coca leaves and coca candies. As we approached the high elevation we began to share our own coca leaves as we were told this would be helpful in preventing altitude sickness. Obediently, everyone could be seen folding up the few coca leaves and inserting this roll of leaves between the teeth and the jaw as instructed…”don’t chew on it we were told” chewing. we understood could upset our stomach.

Car by car and excitedly we boarded this lovely little train. The guide in our car was amicable and knowledgeable about the area. She pointed out for us the most picturesque and historically significant places ( light the blacked soils of the volcano that erupted 6000 yrs ago. After about 45 minutes the train suddenly stopped, we were told some Llamas were on the track, then that something need to fixed on the locomotive so we waited and waited. After more than an hour we were told we needed to be evacuated. Passengers were concerned and even became agitated, there were elderly people and a few children on the train.

As we were being evacuated many people became ill with breathing problems. Some even passed out. Luckily, there was a trained nurse on the train so the most ill were treated and given oxygen. That walk to the evacuation vehicle was very short, but it felt like the longest and most difficult walk ever. A million thanks to the wonderful people of San Antonio de los Cobres. They gather up their vehicles and came out to help us down from the mountains to the waiting buses.

Tips for altitude travel in Argentina

1. Be prepared for falling ill at anytime

2. Travel with some type of medicine for altitude sickness

3. Coca leaves is easily available in some markets, srojchi pills can be bought in any Kiosk

4. At altitude walk slowly and breathe deeply

5. Do not take risks, know your body and don’t over exert yourself to get the views and pictures.

Until next time,

One Love

Leaving Cafayate and heading to Purmamarca in Jujuy, we came upon a large number of people heading towards Salta. People were walking and riding bicycles, in large groups from as far as 400 km from Salta.

We understood the people started walking from September 1, to arrive in Salta on September 15 for the ‘Señor y Virgen Del Milagro’ pilgrimage. It is a well organized pilgrimage with police providing escort on the roads. Along the way people were supplying food and drink, with a spirit pungent with faith and community. We came across many different groups along our route, both in Route 68 and in Route 9 in the yungas, which is a twisting section of the route connecting Salta and Jujuy.

Salta is the land of General Martin Guemes. His statue overlooks the city from the foothills of San Bernardo, which can be reached by car, walking or cable car.

The province of Salta has a variety of landscapes, climates, and people. From the yungas (forests) to the Andes mountains, you can find several different landscapes within a few hours’ drive.

After a few days in Salta city, with its wonderful squares, churches, and lively atmosphere, we set out on a drive south to Rosario de la Frontera, a town that feels like it is at the frontier.

The main activity in the area is cattle ranching, with some grain being grown during the rainy season.

El Sunchal and La Yunga, Salta

After we met our guide, we drive for over an hour to the trailhead, where we met Ignacio, one of our hosts. Ignacio loaded our gear on a horse, and we set out on our walk.

We walked into the yunga, an amazing ecosystem with many different trees, huge ferns, and calming air. We walked for hours, following a well-worn trail that is used by the people that live in the area. These people are part of the Diaguitas tribe who settled in the area in the 1800s, seeking peace and quiet.

After 4 hours and 10 km (about 6 miles), we arrived at our destination: El Sunchal. This settlement is home to a few families, part of the Sulca family.

Our hosts, Jesus, Chacho, and Ignacio, were ready for us, with the kettle full of water, and the fire roaring. They live in a place that could be in a picture book, with streams, pasture, and open skies. It is hard to describe the peace that surrounds the place.

We hiked to a waterfall the next day, an all-day adventure that took us through different ecosystems, from forest to riverside to deep canyons.

And then, that night, the moon showed us that new weather was coming. We got hit by a massive windstorm, a hot wind called Zonda. This wind threatened to collapse our tent and gave us no respite for the whole night and the next morning. You could hear it coming like a freight train, and it will hit us and blow in the sides of the tent.

We walked out, another 10 km. Our reward was a stop at Las Termas de Rosario, a hot springs resort founded in 1880. This resort has 9 different thermal waters, giving us a unique chance to soak our tired bodies for a bit. After a mandatory blood pressure check (never had to do that before going into a hot spring), we were taken to a tiny, private bath with 5 pipes, each with a different temperature of water. Each turn is for 15 minutes of soaking, then 15 minutes of resting. I thought it would not be enough, but after 10 minutes I was melting, it was so warm and intense, totally worth it.

We set out on a 3+ hour drive to our next destination: Tafi del Valle in Tucuman. To get there, we had to drive south to the capital city of Tucuman, then headed west into Tafi.

There was a long drive into the mountains, crossing from the plains into the lush hills, turn after long turn in the dark. We saw a sea of lights, spread out in front of us.

At last, we arrived in Tafi.

Tafi Tucuman

Tafi is a small tourist town, encircled by mountains with a dam in its backyard. The air was cold and hazy after the big Zonda storm.

We followed the recommendation of Leonardo, a Brazilian travel guide we met in Salta, and went for lunch to Wasi Kusi. Adrian, the host and owner, took care of us with great food and recommendations for places to visit and stay.

We visited the archeological site of Los Menhires in El Mollar, and the Los Alisos waterfall in El Rincon. We highly recommend a visit to both.

Museo Pachamama, Amaicha del Valle, Salta

Wow! This is such an unexpected find. We had to stop. It was well worth it. So many works of art by Hector Cruz with local stones and other materials highlight key elements of Pachamama, the Goddess of the Earth and related deities, Inti (Sun) and Quilla (Moon).

Cafayate, Salta

A couple hours’ drive from Amaicha del Valle, on route 40, we arrived in Cafayate, the heart of the wine country in Salta. This small town is lively, with a beautiful central square, surrounded by restaurants, bars, and an imposing church.

We visited a couple of wineries by walking from our excellent hotel, Portal del Santo. Damian and Cristian hosted us at Portal, and treated us like family, with a clean and warm room and a delicious breakfast.

Route 68: Los Colorados, Amphiteather, and Devils’ throat

Leaving Cafayate, we took scenic Route 68 to head north. This road is a collection of landscapes, with soaring mountains, carved-out valleys, and a river that brings greens to the midst of towering mountains.

There are three stops that are a must, easy to access, and well worth it.

Los Colorados

Amphiteater

Devil’s Throat

Walk good.

In the past, I could not have imagined myself on a 15 hours bus trip to anywhere. Last month, we did just this travelling from Mendoza to Buenos Aires.  We settled on bus because our visitors (my sister and spouse) insisted on seeing the great Pampas of Argentina. To satisfy her visions of countless cows, big open blue skies, and grasses stretching miles to the horizon, we packed lunch, bought pop corn and head out in our top-of-the-coach seats to see the Pampas and Buenos Aires.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

The actual experience was different than imagined. We mostly slept, saw few cattle, few trees with mostly foggy vistas as we transitioned in and out of sleep.  Lacking of sleep, and with tired rumps , we finally arrived to the ever bustling and energetic Buenos Aires city. Rested and refreshed we were delighted and ready to indulged in a few days of walking, sightseeing and eating way too much. Before leaving, we arranged a day trip to experience the quiet and charm of Colonial del Sacramento in Uruguay. The 27 miles and 11/2 hr. crossing of the Rio de la Plata by boat was uneventful. In Colonia, we spent a fun and exciting day sightseeing in our rented golf cart…it was an unusual and exhilarating experience.

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

We returned to Mendoza by air and after seeing our visitors off, embarked on a second 17 hours bus trip from Mendoza to Salta.  Salta province is located in the lesser known northwest corner of Argentina,  and it is famous for its culinary delights, nightlife and high altitude white aromatic Torrontes wine.

Salta, Argentina

Recommended Tourist Activities in and around Salta

1. Try out an empanada made with llama meat

2. Ride the cable car to San Bernardo Hill for a panoramic view of Salta City

3. Visit the Catedral Basilica de Salta

4. Take a trip on el Tren a las Nubes (Train to the Clouds)

5. Spend a day to visit the wineries in Cafayate

Until Next time.

One Love