Madrid is the capital of Spain, it is a transportation hub and political center. We started the trip to the Rioja region in Madrid by train. We travelled on a train from one of the new companies in the market, Iryo. The ride was fast, reaching speeds of 300 km/h, and comfortable.
La Rioja is one of the main wine regions of Spain, its red wines are known globally. There are centuries old wineries, with impressive facilities and a rich tourist circuit. The Museum of Wine Experience, is unlike anything you will see anywhere and it is dedicated to knowledge and history of wine making.
Logroño is the capital city of the autonomous community of La Rioja. Founded on the shores of the Ebro river, the city has been around for a very long time, starting with the Romans. It is at the very edge of La Rioja, so you can easily cross into Navarra or Basque Country by roads. Logrono is located in a valley, surrounded by wineries and vineyards, and just 1.5 hours by road from Bilbao.
We visited 3 wineries, each one very different in location, size and character. Well known winery Muga, located in Haro, has an excellent tour and tasting. You get to wander among their barrel rooms, see how they make their own barrels, even the oak they buy from France and the US, I highly recommend a visit.
We next visited Viña Tondonia winery, (R. López de Heredia). It has an impressive and exquisite tasting area and a stand that was designed for the World Fair with a decanter-shaped metal building that protects it. The last winery was Campo Viejo, just a 5 minute drive from Logroño. It sits high on a plateau, surrounded by vineyards and the nearby mountains. Most impressive is its underground cellar that holds about 70,000 barrels, each of 225 liters. The room size is staggering, yet 2 people are in charge of moving all those barrels. It is an excellent place to have wine mature and gain character.
Of special mention is the Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture. Its rooms display artifacts about all stages of wine production, from field tools to oversize grape crushers, amphorae, and the largest collection of corkscrew openers in the world. The on-site restaurant has great food and impressive vistas.
We visited the Frank Gehry-designed restaurant at the Marqués de Riscal Winery. Located in Elciego/Hiribidea, the winery is well known for its production. The building resembles a lot the Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, yet its location and colors that remind of red wine are well worth a visit.
The landscapes of La Rioja was a surprise to us, its meandering roads took us through quaint villages, ancient ruins, soaring cliffs, and imposing vistas. You could spend a lifetime hiking these hills and discover new places each time. The extensive vineyards, stretching for miles around, make this vibrant region an economic powerhouse and wine lovers dream.
Cuisine
Logroño is famous for its tapas/pintxos. One unusual feature of a ‘pintxo crawl’ is that each shop specializes in one type of pintxo, like mushrooms, tortilla or seafood.
Tips to visit La Rioja
1. Fly into Bilbao and take the train to Logroño. With more frequent trips, it would be faster than taking the train from Madrid.
2. During the summer tourist season it could get quite busy. Book your winery tours and lunch in advance.
3. Logroño is a part of the French Camino de Santiago. You could make it one of your stops on the way to Santiago.
Til nex time.
Walk good
Nuevo Nomads 