Nuevo Nomads

Jujuy is a northwest Argentina province with remarkable landscapes. On this trip, We followed Route 9 headed toward Purmamarca and the Mirador de Hornocal, also known as ‘the mountain of 14 colors’. To get there, we negotiated a 25 km stretch of gravel road past Humahuaca. This road reaches Hornocal and, continues to other settlements deep in the hills.

When we finally arrived at Hornocal, we were at 4350 meters above sea level, 14271 feet. You could immediately feel the effects of altitude as the short walk to the lookout point was strained, a combination of altitude and cold winds. Notwithstanding, It was an unforgettable experience. The presence of nature in its overwhelming magnificence was difficult to ignore.

We continued our journey into Purmamarca, a small town situated off Route 52, which reaches all the way to the Chilean border. Purmamarca sits right next to very colorful hills, and hosts many tourists from all over the country and the world. The market around the main square bustles every day as the tour buses comes through. The town is the gateway to other parts of the Altiplano, like the Salinas Grandes.

Driving from Purmamarca to the Salinas Grandes was an exiting day trip. The road is in great condition, the landscapes change constantly, and you get the feeling you are entering a very special area. There are villages at the edge of the Salinas, and the people help guide your visit unto the Salinas.

The clear skies and bright white salt provide a contrast that is unique and exciting to experience. To see salt blocks being used for construction was unexpected. A major trade road crosses the salt flats and connects to the Pacific port of Antofagasta in Chile and on to Paraguay and Brazil. The large trucks that traverse this region provide a small glimpse into the complexities of moving goods between countries.

TIPS

1. Visit Juan Chani at El Meson in Purmamarca. You will have a great meal in a welcoming space.
2. Mirador de Hornocal closes at 6pm. Plan your trip accordingly. The road is best driven with daylight.
3. You will need a guide to enter Salinas Grandes. They are knowledgeable and happy to take your pictures. Cost of entry is $1500 argentine pesos per car ( September 2022). Well worth it!.
4. Route 52 is in great shape. A true joy to drive it at sunset. Until next time.

Walk good