Italy: Rome, Puglia and Sicily

Rome

We arrived in Rome to indulge in our usual pasta and gelato binge. It was extremely hot however, we still did some hiking outside the city to experience a bit of the culture and food outside the extremely touristic city center.

Puglia

After an uneventful six hours train ride to Bari, we made a plan to set up base in Brindisi and explore the surrounding areas in Puglia. Brindisi is a lively city with a compact and interesting old area. It’s extremely walkable, lots of places to experience Apulian cuisine and strategically located close to beaches and historical villages. We recommend Betty’s and Pescheria di porto on the promenade for lunch. You must try the gelato at Chocolosso.
The shoreline in Puglia is dotted with unique and incredible places like Polignano a Mare, a cliffside town.
We drove highways and small local roads passing orchards of oranges, grapes and where olive groves make extensive green spaces climbing up huge hillsides and stretching all the way to the edge of the Adriatic sea. We drove up to the high town of Alberobello to see the stunning Trullo architecture, in Locorotondo we walked the medieval streets, and enjoyed Matera, famous for the ancient cave dwellings, restaurants and shops carved into the mountains. We toured one of these ancient cave dwellings complete with chapel and ice storage system in the village. We had great fun frolicking on the beaches along the Adriatic coast, Mosquito beach and Grotto de Poetry were two of our favorite places.

Sicily


We did not imagine how fascinating and beautiful Sicily would be with its mountainous terrain, clear seas and fresh produce everywhere. We arrived after a 40 minutes boat ride from Villa San Giovanni in the mainland  to Messina. We drove to Catania for our three days in Sicily.  Our first experience was the drive from Catania up the mountain. We drove past small villages with many abandoned houses and farms. Many tropical and subtropical plants thrive in the warm climate of Sicily. The vegetation changes from flowering plants to grapevine on terraced slopes, then came the stunning white birches which gave way to pines and evergreen as you climbed higher up the mountain. We booked the guided hiking tour up Mount Etna. We were uncertain about this trek as the volcano had erupted only two weeks earlier and we could still see steam coming out the crater. This was an actual lesson in the development of primary ecosystems for us. The small circle of life from the spinny plants protects the more delicate plants and provide a hiding place for lizards, bugs and other insects. The air is so fresh, and the hike amazing with many spectacular views of the surrounding villages, the Ionian and Tyrrhean Seas. Every crest offers a view more spectacular than the previous one.

Summary

The sandy beaches of Puglia are underrated and are worthy of a visit. There is so much food and wine to discover! 

Sicily is a gem, the  diamond toe of Italy. Catania channels Napoli, layered, chaotic and astounding.  Etna, wow, a lively landscape from sea to summit. 

We are so grateful for the opportunity to explore, expand and share our appreciation for the human experience.

Tips

  • From June to August, it is quite hot in southern Italy. Plan your day to seek shelter from the sun between noon and 5pm.
  • Prepare to pay a ‘tourist’ tax and service fee at restaurants. In Rome, the tourist tax was 7 euros per day per person.
  • Motorbikes are everywhere in Sicily, drive very carefully, as everyone will move into any open space.

Walk good,

Phyl and Alex

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